选自http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/Domaine-Hubert-Lignier_1177

留着一些胡渣，穿着棕色牛仔裤和旧夹克和运动鞋，罗曼看起来更像一个大学生，但其实是一位负责20英亩天地13个产区其中2.5英亩是特级园的庄主。

With his fuzzy beard, brown jeans, old jacket and sneakers, Romain Lignier looks like a college student on spring break. But behind the laid-back facade is a determined Burgundian grower, who is in charge of making wines from 13 appellations at his family's 20-acre domaine, which includes a 2.5-acre parcel in the grand cru Clos de la Roche.

The 31-year-old Lignier is eager to prove himself, and his wines reveal a definite house style: They are dark and intensely flavored, firm and tightly wound -- even in the lighter 2000 vintage. "It's important to show the terroir, but the winemaker is also important," said Lignier.

In 1991, he took over winemaking duties from his father, Hubert, who is 65 years old and remains active at the domaine. Some traditions remain strong: To make his wines, Romain drops down to his neck in the fermenting vats and, naked, treads the must, grapes and "cap" (the solids that form during fermentation) to help extract color and flavors.

The 2000 Morey-St.-Denis (75-79) was the weakest in the cellar; some vats had been acidified. It has a clean berry character, but turns tough and acidic on the finish. The Gevrey-Chambertin (80-84) is an extracted, plum-tasting Pinot, with some balsamic vinegar aromas (from fairly high volatile acidity, said Lignier).

Among Lignier's premiers crus, the Morey-St.-Denis La Riotte (80-84) is clean and focused, but also has a balsamic-vinegar aroma. Made from 55-year-old vines, the Morey-St.-Denis Vieilles Vignes (85-89) is a modern-styled Pinot, with intensity and power. The Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes (85-89) is thick and rich, with oak character blending with refined red berry flavors. And the wonderful Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes (90-94) is balanced, with silky tannins and ripe fruit.

Lignier makes two grands crus; both might rate "outstanding" after some bottle age, but I scored the barrel samples in the "very good" (85-89) range. The Charmes-Chambertin showed mineral, wet earth and delicate citrus notes, with a long finish. The Clos de la Roche is a lovely wine, with mocha and spice, ripe fruit and also a delicate citrusy note on the rather tough finish.